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Ingredient library

The materials perfumers work with: natural oils and absolutes, the aroma chemicals that made modern perfume possible, and the classic accords built from them. What they smell like, where they come from and how to use them.

93 ingredients

A

Aroma chemicals · Aldehydic

Aldehyde C-12 MNA

Ambergris-like, incense, metallic and fresh, like hot irons and clean linen.

Top

Accords · Amber

Amber accord

Warm, sweet, resinous and enveloping.

Base

Naturals · Musk

Ambergris

Salty, sweet, mineral and skin-like, with a radiant warmth.

Base

Naturals · Musk

Ambrette seed

Soft, musky, pear-like and slightly winey.

Base

Aroma chemicals · Amber

Ambroxan

Warm, dry, mineral and woody, with a salty, skin-like glow.

Base

B

Naturals · Amber

Benzoin

Sweet, vanillic, balsamic and powdery.

Base

Aroma chemicals · Floral

Benzyl acetate

Sweet, fruity jasmine with a pear-and-banana nuance.

Top/heart

Aroma chemicals · Floral

Benzyl salicylate

Faint, sweet, balsamic and floral; the smell of sun cream.

Base

Naturals · Citrus

Bergamot

Bright, juicy citrus with a soft floral and slightly bitter edge.

Top

Aroma chemicals · Fruity

Beta-damascone

Rich rose, plum, apple and tobacco.

Heart

Naturals · Leather

Birch tar

Intensely smoky, tarry and leathery.

Base

C

Aroma chemicals · Marine

Calone

Sea breeze, watermelon and oyster shell.

Top/heart

Naturals · Spicy

Cardamom

Fresh, aromatic, eucalyptus-like spice with a sweet warmth.

Top

Aroma chemicals · Woody

Cashmeran

Plush, musky and woody, with a spicy, pine-like and slightly fruity facet. Like cashmere.

Heart/base

Naturals · Woody

Cedarwood

Dry, clean, pencil-shavings wood.

Base

Naturals · Spicy

Cinnamon

Warm, sweet, woody spice.

Heart

Aroma chemicals · Green

Cis-3-hexenol

Freshly cut grass and crushed green leaves.

Top

Aroma chemicals · Citrus

Citral

Strong, fresh lemon and lemongrass.

Top

Aroma chemicals · Floral

Citronellol

Fresh, waxy, slightly citrusy rose.

Heart

Naturals · Aromatic

Clary sage

Herbal, tea-like and musky, with a warm, ambery facet.

Heart

Naturals · Spicy

Clove

Hot, sweet, medicinal spice.

Heart

Aroma chemicals · Gourmand

Coumarin

Fresh hay, almond, tonka and warm vanilla.

Base

Naturals · Woody

Cypriol (nagarmotha)

Smoky, earthy, woody and leathery, like a gentle vetiver-oud.

Base

D

Aroma chemicals · Citrus

Dihydromyrcenol

Clean lime, lavender and metallic freshness.

Top

E

Aroma chemicals · Gourmand

Ethyl maltol

Cotton candy, caramelised sugar and strawberry jam.

Heart/base

Aroma chemicals · Gourmand

Ethyl vanillin

Creamy vanilla, sweeter and several times stronger than vanillin.

Base

Aroma chemicals · Spicy

Eugenol

Warm clove and carnation.

Heart

Aroma chemicals · Woody

Evernyl

Dry, mossy, earthy oakmoss with a slightly phenolic edge.

Base

Aroma chemicals · Musk

Exaltolide

Elegant, warm, animalic musk.

Base

F

Accords · Green

Fig accord

Milky, green, sweet and woody: fig leaves, sap and ripe fruit.

Heart

Naturals · Amber

Frankincense

Fresh, lemony and peppery at first, then smoky, resinous and spiritual.

Heart/base

G

Aroma chemicals · Musk

Galaxolide

Clean, sweet, floral musk; the smell of fresh laundry.

Base

Naturals · Green

Galbanum

Sharp, bitter, resinous green; like snapping a thick stem.

Top

Aroma chemicals · Fruity

Gamma-undecalactone

Ripe, velvety peach with a creamy, coconut-like softness.

Heart

Aroma chemicals · Floral

Geraniol

Sweet, rosy, slightly citrusy and fresh.

Heart

Naturals · Floral

Geranium

Rosy, minty and green, with a slightly citrusy freshness.

Heart

Naturals · Citrus

Grapefruit

Bitter, zesty, pink citrus with a slightly sulphurous juiciness.

Top

Naturals · Woody

Guaiacwood

Smoky, tea-like, rosy wood.

Base

H

Aroma chemicals · Musk

Habanolide

Clean, metallic, hot-iron musk with a woody nuance.

Base

Aroma chemicals · Floral

Hedione

Transparent, airy jasmine with a hint of citrus. Soft on its own, transforming in a blend.

Heart

Aroma chemicals · Floral

Helional

Fresh, watery, ozonic and green, with cyclamen and hay facets.

Top/heart

Aroma chemicals · Gourmand

Heliotropin

Powdery almond, cherry and vanilla; the smell of heliotrope flowers.

Heart/base

Aroma chemicals · Floral

Hydroxycitronellal

Fresh, sweet lily of the valley with a dewy, green softness.

Heart

I

Aroma chemicals · Floral

Indole

Animalic and mothball-like when strong; heady, narcotic white flower when diluted.

Heart

Aroma chemicals · Floral

Ionones (alpha and beta)

Violet and orris: powdery, woody, sweet; beta-ionone is fruitier and more raspberry-like.

Heart

Aroma chemicals · Woody

Iso E Super

Smooth, velvety, cedar-like woody amber. Subtle on its own; it gives volume to everything around it.

Base

Aroma chemicals · Leather

Isobutyl quinoline

Dark, bitter, earthy leather with green and smoky facets.

Heart/base

J

Naturals · Floral

Jasmine

Rich, sweet, fruity and slightly animalic, with a warm, narcotic depth.

Heart

Aroma chemicals · Woody

Javanol

Creamy, rosy, radiant sandalwood.

Base

K

Naturals · Floral

Kewda

Sweet, honeyed, floral and green, with a fruity, slightly spicy richness.

Heart

L

Naturals · Amber

Labdanum

Warm, leathery, ambery and resinous, with a honeyed, animalic depth.

Base

Naturals · Aromatic

Lavender

Herbal, floral and clean, with a sweet, slightly camphorous freshness.

Top/heart

Accords · Leather

Leather accord

Smoky, tarry, suede-like or animalic, depending on the style.

Base

Naturals · Citrus

Lemon

Sharp, sparkling, clean and very fleeting.

Top

Aroma chemicals · Floral

Lilial

Fresh, watery lily of the valley.

Heart

Aroma chemicals · Citrus

Limonene

Faint, fresh, orange-like citrus.

Top

Aroma chemicals · Floral

Linalool

Fresh, floral, woody, lavender-like.

Top/heart

Aroma chemicals · Aromatic

Linalyl acetate

Fresh, sweet, fruity, bergamot and lavender.

Top

Aroma chemicals · Floral

Lyral

Sweet, soft lily of the valley and cyclamen.

Heart

M

Naturals · Citrus

Mandarin

Sweet, juicy and soft, with a tangy, slightly floral peel.

Top

Accords · Marine

Marine accord

Sea air, wet stones, salt and ozone.

Top/heart

Naturals · Woody

Mitti (earth attar)

Rain on baked earth: mineral, clay-like and refreshing.

Base

Aroma chemicals · Musk

Muscone

Warm, rich, animalic and powdery musk.

Base

Naturals · Amber

Myrrh

Bitter, balsamic, slightly mushroom-like and warm.

Base

N

Naturals · Floral

Neroli

Fresh, green, honeyed orange blossom with a citrus sparkle.

Top/heart

O

Naturals · Woody

Oakmoss

Damp forest floor, earthy, inky and slightly salty.

Base

Naturals · Floral

Orris (iris root)

Powdery, buttery, violet-like, with an earthy, carrot-like nuance.

Heart

Naturals · Floral

Osmanthus

Apricot, leather and tea, with a soft floral sweetness.

Heart

Naturals · Woody

Oud (agarwood)

Smoky, animalic, woody and resinous; from barnyard and leather to sweet and honeyed, depending on origin.

Base

P

Naturals · Woody

Patchouli

Earthy, dark, camphorous and woody, with a cocoa sweetness.

Base

Naturals · Aromatic

Petitgrain

Green, woody, slightly bitter orange with a floral touch.

Top

Naturals · Spicy

Pink pepper

Fizzy, rosy, peppery and slightly fruity.

Top

R

Naturals · Floral

Rose

Ranges from fresh, lemony and dewy to rich, honeyed and jammy.

Heart

Aroma chemicals · Floral

Rose oxide

Green, metallic, geranium-like rose with a lychee nuance.

Top/heart

S

Naturals · Spicy

Saffron

Leathery, honeyed, metallic and warm.

Heart

Aroma chemicals · Spicy

Safranal

Leathery, hay-like, warm saffron.

Heart

Naturals · Woody

Sandalwood

Creamy, milky, soft and woody, with a gentle sweetness.

Base

T

Accords · Amber

Tobacco accord

Sweet, honeyed, hay-like and dried-fruit, with a smoky warmth.

Base

Naturals · Gourmand

Tonka bean

Almond, hay, caramel and warm tobacco.

Base

Naturals · Floral

Tuberose

Creamy, buttery, narcotic and coconut-like, with a camphorous edge.

Heart

V

Naturals · Gourmand

Vanilla

Sweet, creamy and comforting, with smoky, boozy and woody depths in natural extracts.

Base

Aroma chemicals · Gourmand

Vanillin

Sweet, creamy vanilla.

Base

Naturals · Woody

Vetiver

Earthy, smoky, rooty and grassy, with a nutty sweetness.

Base

Naturals · Green

Violet leaf

Intensely green, cucumber-like, watery and earthy.

Top/heart

Y

Naturals · Floral

Ylang-ylang

Creamy, sweet, banana-like and floral, with a spicy warmth.

Heart
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